Pests we treat and the treatment we use

Ants

Ants are widespread but harmless. However, they can cause considerable nuisance if they get into houses. Please note we only offer a treatment for ants in and around a building, we do not treat for ants in lawns or flower beds

The treatment

Treating ants can be a lengthy process the first step is trying to locate where the ants are active. Once a clear pattern and pathway to and from the nest is established, then treatment can be effective.

Bedbugs

Bedbugs feed on warm-blooded animals. Their preferred hosts are humans.

Bedbugs can infest even the cleanest of homes and an infestation does not mean a dirty home.

They feed at night and will often leave you with irritating bite marks. These are often seen in small specs of blood on sheets and pillows.

The treatment

Treating bedbugs can be a long and tedious process but can be successful if done properly. We will visit to confirm evidence of bedbugs in the property before starting any treatment. We will need to confirm an active infestation before providing treatment.

We will investigate areas where infestations usually occur, looking for live bugs, egg and poo deposits. Areas include the bed frame, mattress, draws, wardrobes, curtains, picture frame, sofas or chairs and cracks and crevices.

To ensure effective and successful treatment, we need your help. Once we've identified a bedbug problem, you will need to make your home ready for the treatment. You must carry out the following and failure to carry out these requirements will result in the appointment being cancelled and no refund will be offered.

  • Vacuum all floors and soft furniture thoroughly to remove any debris, eggs or live insects etc., especially in bedrooms and other areas used by people for sleeping. The vacuum bag or contents of the vacuum must be carefully placed inside 2 plastic bags and sealed before putting the bag in an outside waste bin.
  • Hard floor surfaces should be swept and washed or vacuumed.
  • Empty wardrobes, drawers etc. and wash the contents on the hottest wash possible. Clothes and bedding should be placed inside plastic bags in the rooms where bed bugs are active before being carried to the washing area/laundry so that insects do not fall off on route.
  • Strip the beds and wash bedding in the hottest temperature that the fabric will allow (check manufacturers guidelines). Alternatively, you should tumble dry all clothing and bedding for at least an hour on high heat.
  • Remove all possessions from the floor (books, toys, magazines etc.) so that as much of the area as possible can be treated. Pull furniture away from walls to allow treatment behind.
  • Where possible, metal or wooden beds and other known harbourages should be dismantled to allow them to be thoroughly treated. Box/Divan beds may need to be destroyed as they cannot be effectively treated.
  • Children and pets should not be present during treatment. Fish tanks should be removed or covered. Any open food should also be covered or removed.
  • Whenever possible the only items in a room when treatment commences should be the bed and empty furniture.
  • After treatment keep out of the property until the insecticide has dried. If it is not possible to stay out of the house, you should, as far as possible, stay out of the treated area(s).
  • When the insecticide has dried the treated rooms must be occupied and bedrooms slept in as per normal use, this is extremely important as normal occupation of the property will draw the bedbugs out and into the residuals of the insecticides as they are attracted to the carbon dioxide we exhale. Non-compliance could result in treatment failure.
  • You may see some bedbugs for a number of days after treatment. This is due to eggs hatching. The insects will die once they come into contact with the insecticide.
  • Do not vacuum for at least 3 weeks following treatment. The longer you leave the area without vacuuming the greater the chance that treatment will be successful.
  • If cracks and crevices are harbouring bed bugs some minor water staining may occur from a water based insecticide being spayed into these areas. We cannot be held responsible for making good any subsequent damage to painted surfaces or papered walls. Any cracks along skirting boards should be filled after the treatment has been carried out.

On the day of treatment we will need access to your property. You will not be able to enter the property for up to four hours after treatment has finished. We currently use a water-soluble chemical to treat bedbugs. This will dry over the four hours to a fine powder. 

We'll arrange a follow-up visit after the initial treatment and a second and third treatment may be needed depending on the level of infestation. Or we may put in monitoring equipment to check for activity.

Cockroaches

The two most common types of cockroaches to infest commercial and domestic properties in the UK are the:

  • German cockroach
  • Oriental cockroach

Cockroaches are a public health hazard as they feed on anything (omnivorous). They often feed in drains and waste storage areas. Diseases can then be picked up and transferred onto food products and surfaces. Infestations are often the result of broken drains or building defects.

The treatment

Treating cockroaches can be a lengthy process. You must follow all hygiene measures closely to ensure treatment is effective.

Poison baiting works for all types of cockroaches.

Initially, you will need to:

  • Keep all food preparation stations clean
  • Keep all food products secure and out of reach from pests
  • Take any food waste immediately to the outside bin
  • Clean all cups, plates and cutlery immediately after eating/drinking
  • Bin all food that has been contaminate
  • Mop floors once a week.

Most infestations take place in the kitchen. Before any treatment, we will survey the kitchen. We will look for cockroach activity such as faeces, shell casings, eggs and live insects.

Once we confirm activity we will start treatment. This will include the use of bait stations with insecticide and monitoring pads. The monitoring pads enable us to track progress of activity. We will revisit after seven days.

A good sign that the problem is under control is when nymphs no longer get caught on the pads. This usually means the reproduction cycle has been interrupted. When treatment has finished, we will remove all equipment from the property.

Fleas

Fleas lay eggs in bedding materials of pets or on the pets themselves.

Fleas are visible to the naked eye and are reddish in colour. Infestations can spread quickly, especially as a female can lay up to 50 eggs a day. Most eggs will fall off the pet and hatch wherever they are in the house, usually where the pet sleeps. Only a small number of the flea population in a house will be on the animal at a given time.

The treatment

Treatment for fleas is usually simple. Fleas often lay their eggs on the floor in corners or behind radiators so there is no need to treat upholstery. Most infestations need one treatment. In some cases, a second treatment may be necessary.

We will inspect the property to establish if there is an infestation and the level of flea activity. We use several leading brands of flea treatment. These are not only effective but odourless, too.

To help us get rid of the fleas, you will need to do the following before we treat your home and failure to carry out the above pre-treatment requirements will result in the appointment being cancelled and no refund will be given.

  • Pick up and remove all electrical equipment and trailing electric cables from floor surfaces that require a treatment.
  • Vacuum all floor surfaces and empty contents of vacuum.
  • Pick up and remove all personal items, clothing, toys, books and any other possessions off floor surfaces. This includes underneath beds and any carpeted walk in wardrobes.
  • If you have any pet cats or dogs they must have already been treated with a professional flea treatment from a veterinary practice.
  • Declutter and move all items of furniture away from walls.
  • You will have to vacate the property for approximately 4 hours after the treatment or until dry. All pets must be removed from the property during and after the treatment until treated floor surfaces are completely dry.

After treatment do not vacuum for at least seven to 10 days.  This will give the treatment time to eliminate all stages of the flea infestation.

Remember, your help is essential to flea control. Although you may see a few fleas for a day or two after treatment, be patient. These fleas will be gone in a short time. If you continue to see fleas for seven days after treatment we may need to revisit and carry out another treatment.

Mice

The house mouse and field mouse often invade houses, garages and out buildings. They seek a warm, safe environment with a local food source and can squeeze through openings as small as 6mm. Please note we will not offer treatment for mice if only seen outdoors.

Mice eat and excrete on food, contaminating it for humans. They urinate on food surfaces, spreading organisms which can cause food poisoning, such as salmonella. They eat most types of food found in domestic kitchens, but prefer grains. Mice can cause fires by gnawing through electrical cables.

The treatment

As mice are likely to take poison or step onto traps, treatment is usually straight forward.

Dependant on where the activity is in the property, droppings can sometimes be hard to find. For example, in a loft space the mice tend to run underneath the insulation on the ceiling boards. This means there may be no droppings visible above the insulation.

Before we start treatment we will need to investigate access points, activity and location.

Questions we may ask include:

  • When did the noise/sighting first take place?
  • What time of day/night does the noise start?
  • Does the noise stay in one specific area?
  • Have you found any droppings or signs of chewing inside the property?
  • Have you been experiencing any smells?
  • Have you used your own poison?

We will look for droppings, urine stains, smear marks and chewing.

Once we have found evidence of mice inside a property, we will plan the most appropriate treatment.

It may take up to three visits to control the infestation. The first visit will involve a consultation and set-up process. On the second visit - usually between seven and 14 days after the initial visit - we will check any equipment, such as bait or monitoring stations. The third visit should bring the treatment to a close. This should take place three to four weeks after the initial visit. During the final visit, we will remove all equipment, monitoring or bait stations.

Rats

Rats can spread disease such as salmonella (a type of food poisoning) and leptospirosis (Weil's disease).  They can also cause damage to materials, foodstuffs and structures. The most common species in the UK is the common or brown rat. It is strong, can jump up to three metres and squeeze through a gap of less than 2.5cm.

Rats will seek out any environment that provides food, water and shelter. In homes they can live in loft spaces, wall cavities and cellar/sub floor areas. In gardens they are attracted by wild bird food, compost heaps, garden decking and collections of materials.

The treatment

Although treatment for rats is straightforward, they are an intelligent species that learn quickly from their surroundings and life experiences.

Before we start treatment we will need to gather as much information as possible. Questions may include:

  • When did the noise/sightings first take place?
  • How often do you hear/see them?
  • What time of day/night does the main activity take place?
  • Have you found any droppings or signs of chewing inside the property?
  • Have you experienced any strong smells?
  • Do you or any neighbours feed the birds?
  • If the rats have been seen outside, we may ask:
  • How many do you see at one time?
  • Do any neighbours have a pond?
  • Do you throw any leftovers out to the birds?

Once we have all the information, we can plan the most appropriate treatment process.

For treatment outside, we will survey the area looking for burrows, signs of digging and flattened vegetation. 

It may take up to three visits to control the infestation. The first visit will involve a consultation and set-up process. On the second visit - usually between seven and 14 days after the initial visit - we will check any equipment such as bait or monitoring stations. The third visit should bring the treatment to a close. This will be around three to four weeks after the initial visit. During the final visit, we will remove all equipment, monitoring or bait stations.

Wasps

Wasps are not considered a public health risk. But they can present a nuisance when a nest is in or around your home or garden. Wasps, like other insects, are beneficial to the environment as they eat other insect pests. Unless the location of the nest is causing a problem to you or other members of the public, we would avoid treatment. Wasps can sting and can pose a hazard if you disturb the nest. The elderly and those who suffer from anaphylactic shock are especially vulnerable. Treatment should be sought when the wasps pose a risk to residents or to the public.

The treatment

As long as we can identify the nest and it's accessible, treatment should be straight forward however, as  a result of the withdrawal certain insecticides we are seeing an increase in re treatments. We will carry out treatment on the same day. Treatment of wasps nests is not always necessary or safe to do, and this is something we will assess when we visit.

A nest opening is usually visible by a regular presence/activity of wasps going to and from. In the early stages of the nest's life cycle it may take a little longer to find. If we can't find the nest entrance or access the nest then this may prevent or restrict treatment.

The insecticidal dust we use is toxic to aquatic life. You will need to cover any garden ponds that are nearby. Keep pets away from the treatment site, or indoors, for at least 24 hours. Contaminated wasps can leave the nest after treatment and it is unpredictable where they may die.

The type of chemical used will be dependant on whether the nest is inside or outside. Once we treat the nest it is common for the hive activity to increase and for the wasps to become more aggressive. You should avoid the area for the next four hours.

Nest removal

We will not remove the nest, as the wasps will never return. If you wish to you can safely remove the nest once you have established that it is dead. You can enclose the dead nest in a rubbish sack by dislodging or vacuuming the area. Ensure you empty the vacuum cleaner before using it around the home again.

Pests we don't treat and where to go for advice

Any reptiles such as snakes or lizards

The four most common types of snake found in Britain are:

  • adder or viper
  • grass snake
  • smooth snake

Slow worms can be mistaken for snakes but are in fact legless lizards.

It is illegal to kill, injure or sell any native British snake or lizard.

In the UK snakes are not dealt with as pests, as problems are not common and dealing with them requires particular skills.

Find out more about how to identify a snake on the RSPCA website.

Badgers

It is an offence to kill or injure a badger, or to damage or interfere with a set unless you have a licence from a statutory authority.

Find out more about protection and licences on GOV.UK.

Bats

All bat species, their breeding sites and resting places are protected by law. It’s an offence to disturb or destroy bats, or any place they’re living (roosting), even if it’s inside your home.

Contact the National Bat Helpline Link  if you have any concerns and need advice. It can arrange for one of Natural England's volunteer bat roost visitors to inspect your property.

Bees

Although endangered, bees are not protected and can be treated. We recommend exploring all other avenues before considering eradication as bees play an important role in our environment and are valuable pollinators and are under threat due to loss of habitat and exposure to pesticides.

Please visit the British Bee Keepers Association website to find out how to tell the difference between wasps, bees and hornets.

Honeybee swarms or other bee species on Council land can be reported to us but if a swarm of Honeybees is on private land please contact Bedfordshire Beekeepers Association to arrange a swarm collection however, please note they will not remove other bee species.

Birds

We do not deal with the control of any bird species. Every wild bird and their eggs in the UK is protected by law under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981.

Please visit the British Pest Control Association website for more information on bird control.

Flies

Everyone has experienced having flies in their home. Although flies do have the potential to spread germs and diseases If you maintain good hygiene standards and food isn't freely available then there should be no problems. 

Readily available fly killer aerosols will kill flies quickly, and sticky fly papers are also available.

Foxes

We do not deal with fox control. The fox is not classed as vermin by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA).

The RSPCA has a handy 'living with foxes' guide if you want to know how to deal with foxes in your garden.

We have no statutory powers or legal rights to eradicate foxes on private or other land. Anyone who harms a fox could face a jail sentence of up to six months and an unlimited fine.

Moles

Moles are rarely seen as these mammals live mostly underground. They dig out a system of tunnels and chambers and dispose of the excavated soil by throwing up molehills on the surface.

Moles don’t feed on plants, they are carnivorous feeding on invertebrates that fall into their system of tunnels. Any plant damage they cause is incidental to their lifestyle. Molehills on lawns can be removed before mowing and collapsed surface tunnels filled to maintain a level lawn surface.

Mole activity is usually greatest in late winter and early spring.

Moles are very territorial and in many cases the mole hills seen in a garden are the activity of just one individual.

Where possible moles should be treated as part of the biodiversity that gardens support. Should the activities of a mole be considered too disruptive there are several steps which can be taken to mitigate its activities or encourage them to move elsewhere or control moles. 

Please visit the RSPCA website for more information on living with moles.

Although we do not offer treatments for moles some pest controllers do and more information on moles and pest controllers that offer treatments for them can be found on the British Pest Control Association (BPCA) website.

Silverfish

Silverfish are not considered a nuisance pest and are not a risk to human health. Adults are approximately 12mm long, slim and silver/grey in colour. Their abdomen is tapered at the end giving them a fish like appearance, hence their name.

Silverfish are usually found in moist or damp areas such as kitchens, but are also found in bathrooms, under floors and in basements.

If you suspect you have silverfish, then the best control methods are ones you can do yourself. Dispose of any stacks of paper (such as magazines and newspapers) or old clothing. Place any clothing or books you wish to save into a freezer (wrapped in plastic) for four to seven days. Ensure the plastic is left on until the items have thawed. The severe cold will kill the insects.

Sealing holes, cracks and gaps in affected rooms can help restrict their movements to other areas. Locate and identify why the room is damp/humid and take steps to remedy it.

Spiders

We do not provide a pest control service for the treatment or identification of spiders.

To remove a spider without killing it, invert a small carton over it and slide a piece of card between the opening and the surface on which the spider rests.

Where multiple spiders require controlling, this is usually achieved by physical collection and web destruction. If this isn't possible, control may be achieved by the removal of prey. 

See the Natural History Museum website for guidance on how to identify false widow spiders.

Squirrels

Grey squirrels are experts at gaining access to areas of our homes, such as loft spaces.

Good climbers, squirrels will often take advantage of fence lines or rows of conifers. To stop grey squirrels infesting your roof space you should seal up access routes using chicken wire. Ensure there are no young or adult squirrels in your loft space before carrying out proofing work or pest control treatment. 

Squirrels will often chew loft insulation and stuff it into a corner. The nest may also have a large opening.

Other signs to look for is a strong smell of rodent urine. Squirrels like to scent mark around their home so you may get a strong musky or urine smell. They are also most active during the day. If you hear most of the noise during the day and a little in the early night then it is most likely to be squirrels.

The last things to look for is signs of chewing, fur and sightings of the squirrel itself.

Although we do not offer treatments for squirrels many pest controllers do and more information on squirrel control and pest controllers that offer treatments for them can be found on the British Pest Control Association (BPCA) website.

Woodlice

There are three species that enter houses from the garden - one of which, the pill woodlouse, rolls up into a tight ball when disturbed.

Woodlice are harmless feeders upon rotten wood or other vegetable matter in cool, damp areas. They typically live underneath stones, clumps of plants, logs, or doormats, from which they may crawl into dark corners of a house. Rockeries with aubrietia are great favourites with them.

How to get rid of Woodlice

No treatment is necessary but if they persist put right any dampness, remove infested vegetation and use an insecticidal powder or long-lasting spray around door-thresholds or other points of entry. Amateur use products are available from your local garden centre or hardware store. Just make sure you select a product labelled for control of woodlice.

Rats in open spaces

The presence of rats in open spaces such as parks and retail parks is often due to an accumulation of litter and refuse or overflowing bins.

If you wish to report a rat problem at this type of location and there is a build-up of litter or refuse or an overflowing bin, please report it to us. Do not use this option to request a pest control treatment at your property.

Other pests

For other pests we don’t offer a treatment for the British Pest Control Association (BPCA) has a comprehensive list of advice and pest control company search functions on its website and some pest controllers may offer treatments for some of species above if permitted by law.